It's about 11 PM on Saturday night here in Phuket. Why aren't you out partying in the streets? - one might ask. The answer, I'm getting on a bus at 7AM for an 8 hour busride to Thailand's southeast coast and then boarding a boat for an hour to the islands of Ko Samui, Ko Tao, and Ko Phangan. They are relatively small islands, perhaps Google might have a few aerial photographs to get a better sense of where I'm talking. Phuket has been pretty awesome so far but it's geared mostly towards European families, couples, and pedophiles. Last night I saw a garden variety grandfather, age between 60 and 75 with white beard and polo shirt with a girl no older than 10 years old. That was the most shocking disparity I've seen so far and it was just bizarre and totally wrong. While still pretty raunch in my books, most of the other Thai girls I've seen with old white men are in their late 20's, early 30's and appear to be mutually happy together. At least they're of consentual age. This guy was holding her hand and buying her all kinds of gifts at the market. He was definitely not a parent or grandfather, she was dark brown and he was bleach white. All I can say is that you know you've failed at life when you have to move to Thailand to find "love" by seducing and manipulating 10 year old girls. Some people are just bent. Anyways, that went a bit off tangent didn't it? Back to tomorrow. Ko Samui et al. have legendary status as SE Asia's top backpacker's haven. I hope to spend 2 nights on Ko Samui and then take a boat to Ko Phangan or Ko Tao for Christmas and New Years celebrations. Ko Phangan in particular is renowned for their full moon parties every month. There will be one on Christmas and one on New Years taking place right on the shores of the island. A few good friends of mine, Clarke and Matt have both experienced it and they simply can't be skipped if you find yourself wandering around Thailand one day.
I must correct my earlier claim that Ko Samui was the setting of Leo di Caprio's "The Beach". A Thai tour guide explained to me that the film was actually about Ko Phangan, but was physically filmed on Maya Beach of the Ko Phi Phi islands just south of Phuket. I found this out because I visited the Phi Phi islands yesterday on a one day tour. I haven't even seen The Beach because I heard it wasn't that great and I really wasn't even a fan of any di Caprio movies in that period after Titanic, but it's kind of cool to say you've been to THE Beach. If Hollywood chooses that beach, then it must be THE Beach of all beaches, right? Anyways, these islands truly are the real deal. Probably the most beautiful islands in Thailand, maybe the world. The tsunami demolished much of the coastline on the islands 5 years ago, but it's amazing how quickly everything grows. Once again, Google is the word because I wouldn't be able to capture the details here. My pal Matt stayed on those islands for 4 weeks last year in utter isolation and never wanted to leave. I took a day tour, but you can hire a local longboat guide to take you on the hour trip into the sea and stay as long as you want in the bungalows there for about $20 a night. I couldn't imagine spending 4 weeks there - the novelty might wear off and I like to keep on the move, but trust me, there is a lot of novelty to wear off if you like lounging in paradise. I highly recommend the Phi Phi islands as a must see destination in Thailand.
Tomorrow night I'll be somewhere on the other side of Thailand. As remote as it sounds, there are plenty of eager Thai people waiting to charge me big baht for internet usage, so I'm not too worried. Just in case, this might be the last message for a few days before I get settled there. It is very easy to get around here and despite Phuket's reputation for drugs, prostitutes, and pedophilia - I'm amazed at how safe it is. The Thai people are truly awesome folks - so friendly and accepting of everything and everyone - and full of charm and humour. The men are not chauvinists and the women aren't objects. (Apart from the white men who come here and throw money at them). While there is a lot of questionable behaviour going on at all times, if you stick to your senses and don't go looking for trouble you won't have a problem. This isn't Detroit or any big city in North America for that matter. I was out walking around at 1AM through the red light district last night (which is basically the whole Patong strip) and there is nothing to be afraid of. At most, a girl or 'ladyboy' (over 250,000 in Thailand) might smile and tap your shoulder as you walk by, and say something like "me love you long time", "you were in my dream!" and then burst out laughing (yes, they actually say that). In short, it's a safe place and most of my preconceptions have been smighted. Okay that's enough reassurance for now.
Well, it's midnight and I should get some sleep! Farewell everyone and see you at Ko Samui.
Saturday, December 19, 2009
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
At Patong Beach - Phuket - Thailand
Hello everybody! On Tuesday I had a 7 hour flight from Perth to Phuket, Thailand. The last few days in Perth were really mellow and relaxing, aside from two more vulgar episodes I witnessed in the town. I wasn't exaggerating when I last descibed some of the people to be found there. If you go looking for disappointing behaviour in Perth you won't be disappointed. I won't go into too much detail because I don't have much time at the moment, but I was standing in line for a sandwich and some scrawny white trash kid with a rattail haircut storms through the doors and throws a full can of coke at the poor cashier's face - for no reason I could derive other than the sandwich maker being Chinese. I'll tell you more about this later though.
I spent both days after Adelaide at Perth's Cottesloe Beach which is one of the nicest stretch of beaches in Australia. After saying farewell to my friends I boarded the plane for Phuket... and here I am. It's hard to believe this place was completely obliterated by the tsunami only five years ago. There are no signs of disaster and the tourist industry is bustling. Last night I walked the shores of Patong Beach and saw a man sitting by himself, crouched with his head between his legs, sometimes looking vacantly towards the horizon. You could tell by his posture and expression that he lost somebody, maybe his partner or child or both. It was sad.
I've only been here for 2 days, but Thailand is an extraordinary place. It's like Bali in the way society functions. I've noticed you can tell a lot about a country by its traffic. The more chaotic the traffic, the more freeflowing the culture. There aren't really any rules and money speak the loudest. A lot of older white men walking around with young Thai girlfriends. It's a bit shocking to see at first, but fades into the cultural white noise. Patong Beach is surrounded by giant hills covered in lush green jungle. I'm staying here for another night and debating a trip to the Phi Phi islands just south of here. Apparently there is a place called James Bond island where one of the movies was filmed 10 years ago. It's a big attraction now. Speaking of which, my ultimate goal is to end up on Ko Samui by Saturday where "The Beach" with Leonardo di Caprio was shot.
Well, I've got a few decisions to make so I better run. I don't know where I'll be for Christmas or ew Years but I'll try my best to reach a computer when I figure it out. They might be few and far between until I reach Bangkok, so just hang tight! I'll try my best to have a couple of updates before then.
Bye for now folks!
I spent both days after Adelaide at Perth's Cottesloe Beach which is one of the nicest stretch of beaches in Australia. After saying farewell to my friends I boarded the plane for Phuket... and here I am. It's hard to believe this place was completely obliterated by the tsunami only five years ago. There are no signs of disaster and the tourist industry is bustling. Last night I walked the shores of Patong Beach and saw a man sitting by himself, crouched with his head between his legs, sometimes looking vacantly towards the horizon. You could tell by his posture and expression that he lost somebody, maybe his partner or child or both. It was sad.
I've only been here for 2 days, but Thailand is an extraordinary place. It's like Bali in the way society functions. I've noticed you can tell a lot about a country by its traffic. The more chaotic the traffic, the more freeflowing the culture. There aren't really any rules and money speak the loudest. A lot of older white men walking around with young Thai girlfriends. It's a bit shocking to see at first, but fades into the cultural white noise. Patong Beach is surrounded by giant hills covered in lush green jungle. I'm staying here for another night and debating a trip to the Phi Phi islands just south of here. Apparently there is a place called James Bond island where one of the movies was filmed 10 years ago. It's a big attraction now. Speaking of which, my ultimate goal is to end up on Ko Samui by Saturday where "The Beach" with Leonardo di Caprio was shot.
Well, I've got a few decisions to make so I better run. I don't know where I'll be for Christmas or ew Years but I'll try my best to reach a computer when I figure it out. They might be few and far between until I reach Bangkok, so just hang tight! I'll try my best to have a couple of updates before then.
Bye for now folks!
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Adelaide
Well, I've been in Adelaide for the last 48 hours and it's been a dream. I'm staying on the southeastern coast of the Great Australian Bite with Ian, Bonnie, and Angie Young - they're old friends of my parents and their house sits right on the beach. The community actually faces westward over the Indian Ocean so the sunsets are pretty spectacular. It's been a real treat so far. They're very generous people and have been excellent hosts showing me around the city. Ian is an avid swimmer and has won several prestigious competitions around here. He's even swam the notoriously turbulent channel separating San Francisco and Alcatraz! He's doing a swim competition on Sunday so he trains everyday.
Adelaide itself is a unique city with English charm. It's full of pubs and churches and surrounded by rolling hills and vineyards. Apparently some of Australia's most renowned wines are produced here. The temperature hung around 20 degrees all of yesterday, high 20's today. It's so odd being this far south of the equator to the point where the conditions start reflecting those of my northernish home. However, snow is the stuff of storybooks here. Most people have never seen it. Ian is going to take me on a tour of the coastline tomorrow, so I'm looking forward to that. (Just to let people know, there's now a 15.5 hour difference between the Eastern time zone and Adelaide.) Earlier today, Angie and her friend Lauren took me to a small town called Victor Harbour. The funniest thing happened - Lauren went to buy a hotdog and before she even took one bite a rogue seagull swooped over her shoulder and plucked it right out of her hand with its beak! Just moments later, an entire horde of these bastards came careening over the rooftop into a fullblown attack on the hotdog, ripping it to shreds right in front of us. I was warned of sharks, crocs and pythons but I have never seen such an aggressive squawkfest in my entire life. We fled the scene thinking we had somehow become extras in a remake of that old Hitchcock film, Birds. hahaha!
Anyways, Adelaide has been great and the Aussies here are much more like the people I expected to meet when I first arrived. Perth is a beautiful place too and I think I was a bit harsh in the last post. It's just what I observed that day and how I was feeling at the time. But I'm glad to be here now. Lance Armstrong is coming here next week to compete in the "Aussie Tour Down Under" but I'll be gone by then. A bit of a shame not to get over to eastern Aus and NZ but I had to make a choice between Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam vs. Australia and New Zealand and in the end I think SE Asia is better when you're young, and much cheaper too. I didn't really factor Australia into this trip aside from a visit with Matt in Perth because I'm on a budget, so every day here is a bonus. Both adventures would be amazing, no doubt about it, but my dollar goes much further in Asia than it would here.
Well, I'd love to ramble some more but I should get to bed. Hope everything is going well back home. Cheers from Adelaide!
Adelaide itself is a unique city with English charm. It's full of pubs and churches and surrounded by rolling hills and vineyards. Apparently some of Australia's most renowned wines are produced here. The temperature hung around 20 degrees all of yesterday, high 20's today. It's so odd being this far south of the equator to the point where the conditions start reflecting those of my northernish home. However, snow is the stuff of storybooks here. Most people have never seen it. Ian is going to take me on a tour of the coastline tomorrow, so I'm looking forward to that. (Just to let people know, there's now a 15.5 hour difference between the Eastern time zone and Adelaide.) Earlier today, Angie and her friend Lauren took me to a small town called Victor Harbour. The funniest thing happened - Lauren went to buy a hotdog and before she even took one bite a rogue seagull swooped over her shoulder and plucked it right out of her hand with its beak! Just moments later, an entire horde of these bastards came careening over the rooftop into a fullblown attack on the hotdog, ripping it to shreds right in front of us. I was warned of sharks, crocs and pythons but I have never seen such an aggressive squawkfest in my entire life. We fled the scene thinking we had somehow become extras in a remake of that old Hitchcock film, Birds. hahaha!
Anyways, Adelaide has been great and the Aussies here are much more like the people I expected to meet when I first arrived. Perth is a beautiful place too and I think I was a bit harsh in the last post. It's just what I observed that day and how I was feeling at the time. But I'm glad to be here now. Lance Armstrong is coming here next week to compete in the "Aussie Tour Down Under" but I'll be gone by then. A bit of a shame not to get over to eastern Aus and NZ but I had to make a choice between Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam vs. Australia and New Zealand and in the end I think SE Asia is better when you're young, and much cheaper too. I didn't really factor Australia into this trip aside from a visit with Matt in Perth because I'm on a budget, so every day here is a bonus. Both adventures would be amazing, no doubt about it, but my dollar goes much further in Asia than it would here.
Well, I'd love to ramble some more but I should get to bed. Hope everything is going well back home. Cheers from Adelaide!
Monday, December 7, 2009
Surf's up... or not
It's about 7 o'clock Monday evening here in Perth. It's 28 degrees and the sun is just about to set. It's been a pretty eventful week so far. Went to the zoo, tried in vein to surf, and I look like a red cow with this blotched tan. It was my 23rd birthday last Sunday, so Matt and I had a couple of brews on the beach and fish n' chips for lunch. Considering I'm about the furthest from home I could ever be I couldn't have asked for a more relaxing day. The beaches here are glorious and vast. You can walk them 'til your feet fall off and they still trail far off beyond the horizon. I love swimming in the ocean and have gained so much more respect for H2O. The waves are so powerful - got tossed like a ragdoll on several occasions!
While the landscapes and oceanviews here verge on the sublime, the same cannot be said for a large portion of Perth's inhabitants - a very large portion whom I believe border on retardation. Sorry if this sounds offensive to some, but every city in the world has this demographic. Perth's demographic just happens to be more bloatedly hypervisible than anywhere I've been to this point. These are the type of people who pick fights on trains, swear at their mothers, eat KFC 4 times a day and suck each other's faces in the middle of the town square. I have been witness to several of these shameful displays of affection and aggression and I simply cannot omit these observations for the sake of upholding the Canadian reputation for courtesy and goodwill. In no way am I trying to cast a dismal shadow over the rest of Australia - Perth is the only Aussie city I've been to so far and there are some very nice people here too, of course - but after being in much poorer parts of Asia, one might expect a little first world behaviour in this brand of paradise. Don't get me wrong, I'm no prude. I loved how interesting Indonesia was with all of its corruption and deception, but the people there had so much dignity when they weren't swindling for their livelihood. In a very general sense, it seems that the populations who cling to survival are much more prioritizing and efficient than the ones lavishing themselves in excess. Anyways, I'm done railing on Perthians. It's not an Aussie thing, it's a human thing.
On a somewhat contradictory note, Wednesday I'm going to Adelaide to visit an old friend of my Mom and Dad's. They're originally from Canada but have live in the land of Oz for more than a decade. These folks are incredibly generous and have invited me to stay there for a couple of days. It'll be a nice change of scenery and I'm very excited! Gotta run for dinner. More to come.
While the landscapes and oceanviews here verge on the sublime, the same cannot be said for a large portion of Perth's inhabitants - a very large portion whom I believe border on retardation. Sorry if this sounds offensive to some, but every city in the world has this demographic. Perth's demographic just happens to be more bloatedly hypervisible than anywhere I've been to this point. These are the type of people who pick fights on trains, swear at their mothers, eat KFC 4 times a day and suck each other's faces in the middle of the town square. I have been witness to several of these shameful displays of affection and aggression and I simply cannot omit these observations for the sake of upholding the Canadian reputation for courtesy and goodwill. In no way am I trying to cast a dismal shadow over the rest of Australia - Perth is the only Aussie city I've been to so far and there are some very nice people here too, of course - but after being in much poorer parts of Asia, one might expect a little first world behaviour in this brand of paradise. Don't get me wrong, I'm no prude. I loved how interesting Indonesia was with all of its corruption and deception, but the people there had so much dignity when they weren't swindling for their livelihood. In a very general sense, it seems that the populations who cling to survival are much more prioritizing and efficient than the ones lavishing themselves in excess. Anyways, I'm done railing on Perthians. It's not an Aussie thing, it's a human thing.
On a somewhat contradictory note, Wednesday I'm going to Adelaide to visit an old friend of my Mom and Dad's. They're originally from Canada but have live in the land of Oz for more than a decade. These folks are incredibly generous and have invited me to stay there for a couple of days. It'll be a nice change of scenery and I'm very excited! Gotta run for dinner. More to come.
Sunday, November 29, 2009
On vacation from vacation in the land of Oz
G'day mates, I'm officially in the land down under! My good buddy Matt McGuinty and his girlfriend Brittni have a place here in Perth, and they have ever so graciously offered me their couch for the next couple weeks. Perth resides on the southwest coast of western Australia, right on the Indian Ocean, and is home to some of the biggest waves and strongest currents I've ever experienced (which isn't saying much, but just trust me on this one). Summer has arrived here in the outback and we just got back from Perth's famous Scarborough Beach. The beach is 35 kilometres of pristine white sand and thunderous surf. And, due to Perth's status as the most isolated capital city in the world, there are virtually no tourists here. Only Aussies use the beaches so it's quiet and clean.
Anyways, much has transpired since the last post I left so I'll go back in time a little bit. The night of the last post in Bali, Will and I headed north for Singaraja and Lovina to stay the night. These are two fishing towns on the north coast of the island and it was a long ride from Batur. We were relieved to get there just after sundown because driving after dark in Indonesia is like playing Russian roulette. Add one hefty dose of no drunk driving law, a pint of no speed limit, and mix with no helmets and no streetlights for some extra flare and you have a messy recipe for disaster. Lovina was once a thriving tourist destination aside from Kuta and Denpasar but it has suffered tremendously since the bombings. Our waiter that evening was a guy named "Do" and he lost his best friend. In the aftermath, he only had a few bones to bury and each batch was indistinguishable from the next. To this day he doesn't even know if he buried his friend's remains. It was a heartbreaking conversation, one I'll never forget.
After dinner, Will and I reflected on the bombings for a while and had some Balinese Bintang beer on the beach under the stars. For the most part, Lovina was deserted. We got a room for $5. It stank of septic bilgewater and when we walked in after dinner there was an enormous cockroach scurrying around all over our backpacks. If you've never seen or killed one, well, everything you've heard is true! They're ugly, elusive, intelligent, and crazy difficult to kill. I actually respect the bloody little guys as much as I despise them. Needless to say, we didn't sleep well that night. The next morning we blasted down the coast to a little scuba town in Tembulan in the shadow of Mt. Agung, Bali's largest volcano. We stayed at a placed owned by some German folks and swam in the ocean. The next morning Will and I parted ways - he was off to another island called Lombok and I was determined to climb Mt. Batur. If I hadn't have met Will I probably wouldn't have done that tour of Bali via bike, and I am so thankful I met him.
So, on Wednesday I went back to Mt. Batur to climb the volcano my dad once climbed 30 years ago. Thursday morning at 3:30 AM I woke up and began the ascent at 4 AM. I was with a local guide and an Italian guy, and we reached the summit by 5 AM. It was really peaceful waiting for the sunrise - thunderless lightning illuminated the crater lake. A family of maonkeys came to visit too! Unfortunately, the view of the sunrise was heavily obstructed by clouds and a lot of the other hikers were disappointed. I'm really glad I did it though. It was cool to know I climbed the same volcano my dad climbed, and I almost didn't because I was so far away the day before. Better to try something and regret nothing than try nothing and regret everything. I was exhausted after the descent and couldn't really sleep so I packed my bag and started driving back towards Denpasar and Kuta to return my bike. The ride back was really great - I took a backroad the whole way (they're all backroads really) but this one meandered through tiny villages and cascading rice fields, then through the craftsmen's town of Ubud and on to Kuta. I spent most of the afternoon at the hostel recovering in the pool and had a long chat with a Javanese guy named Agung, working to provide for his family in Java. I like mentioning chats with the locals because there is much perspective to be gained in dialogues with them. So much struggle and hardship, perseverance and character in these people. It's awakening and inspirational.
So here I am in Perth, world's away from the world I know and yet this could be the outback's version of the GTA. Curiously enough, I've actually had more culture shock in Australia than any other Asian country so far. It's like being on vacation from my trip. It's somewhat disorienting to move around as I have. 6 flights and 5 countries in one month. Constantly being on the move is exciting and refreshing but tiring and unsettling at points, so it's nice to be here for awhile with an old friend. And it's fun making tasteless jokes about Steve Irwin. Cheers mates!
Anyways, much has transpired since the last post I left so I'll go back in time a little bit. The night of the last post in Bali, Will and I headed north for Singaraja and Lovina to stay the night. These are two fishing towns on the north coast of the island and it was a long ride from Batur. We were relieved to get there just after sundown because driving after dark in Indonesia is like playing Russian roulette. Add one hefty dose of no drunk driving law, a pint of no speed limit, and mix with no helmets and no streetlights for some extra flare and you have a messy recipe for disaster. Lovina was once a thriving tourist destination aside from Kuta and Denpasar but it has suffered tremendously since the bombings. Our waiter that evening was a guy named "Do" and he lost his best friend. In the aftermath, he only had a few bones to bury and each batch was indistinguishable from the next. To this day he doesn't even know if he buried his friend's remains. It was a heartbreaking conversation, one I'll never forget.
After dinner, Will and I reflected on the bombings for a while and had some Balinese Bintang beer on the beach under the stars. For the most part, Lovina was deserted. We got a room for $5. It stank of septic bilgewater and when we walked in after dinner there was an enormous cockroach scurrying around all over our backpacks. If you've never seen or killed one, well, everything you've heard is true! They're ugly, elusive, intelligent, and crazy difficult to kill. I actually respect the bloody little guys as much as I despise them. Needless to say, we didn't sleep well that night. The next morning we blasted down the coast to a little scuba town in Tembulan in the shadow of Mt. Agung, Bali's largest volcano. We stayed at a placed owned by some German folks and swam in the ocean. The next morning Will and I parted ways - he was off to another island called Lombok and I was determined to climb Mt. Batur. If I hadn't have met Will I probably wouldn't have done that tour of Bali via bike, and I am so thankful I met him.
So, on Wednesday I went back to Mt. Batur to climb the volcano my dad once climbed 30 years ago. Thursday morning at 3:30 AM I woke up and began the ascent at 4 AM. I was with a local guide and an Italian guy, and we reached the summit by 5 AM. It was really peaceful waiting for the sunrise - thunderless lightning illuminated the crater lake. A family of maonkeys came to visit too! Unfortunately, the view of the sunrise was heavily obstructed by clouds and a lot of the other hikers were disappointed. I'm really glad I did it though. It was cool to know I climbed the same volcano my dad climbed, and I almost didn't because I was so far away the day before. Better to try something and regret nothing than try nothing and regret everything. I was exhausted after the descent and couldn't really sleep so I packed my bag and started driving back towards Denpasar and Kuta to return my bike. The ride back was really great - I took a backroad the whole way (they're all backroads really) but this one meandered through tiny villages and cascading rice fields, then through the craftsmen's town of Ubud and on to Kuta. I spent most of the afternoon at the hostel recovering in the pool and had a long chat with a Javanese guy named Agung, working to provide for his family in Java. I like mentioning chats with the locals because there is much perspective to be gained in dialogues with them. So much struggle and hardship, perseverance and character in these people. It's awakening and inspirational.
So here I am in Perth, world's away from the world I know and yet this could be the outback's version of the GTA. Curiously enough, I've actually had more culture shock in Australia than any other Asian country so far. It's like being on vacation from my trip. It's somewhat disorienting to move around as I have. 6 flights and 5 countries in one month. Constantly being on the move is exciting and refreshing but tiring and unsettling at points, so it's nice to be here for awhile with an old friend. And it's fun making tasteless jokes about Steve Irwin. Cheers mates!
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Batur Lake, Bali
This is surreal. I'm in a tiny internet cafe on the outer rim of the Batur Lake crater in the northwestern section of Bali. There is so much to tell and I don't have too much time so I'll keep it short for now. I made a freind in Kuta the first night I arrived. His name is Will and he's from London, England. Together we have rented motorcycles (it's okay Mom, only 110 cc's and we have helmets) and we've been travelling around the island. Parts of the roads we've taken go through jungles, into craters, over rivers, and beside the ocean. Of the few rules on the road, none are obeyed, yet once you get used to the free-flowing movement of traffic you realize how safe it is. The only danger is driving at night - which we will absolutely not do - because drunk driving is legal here. Basically, Indonesia is a lawless land and the ones that are enforced are easily averted through bribery. In all of these ways, this is precisely why it's a paradise. Anything goes.
There are trees, flora, and animals I've never seen before. Parts of the island look like the magma just cooled yesterday. And riding around in these cycles is an absolute blast. If I hadn't have met Will I don't know if I'd be doing this. Yesterday we stopped for lunch not far from the infamous Bali bombings of 2003 and I met a fascinating man. He was an older white man from Hawaii and reminded me of Ernest Hemingway. He did 2 tours in Vietnam and builds custom homes for people all over the world using the tropics for his decorative inspiration. He even owns 10 acres of rainforest in Bali and harvests his wood using a Balinese workforce and waterbuffalo! Not an ounce of pretentiousness or arrogance about him whatsoever. He told us with a glint in his eye that "corruption works!" in Indonesia. He is friends with the U.S. consulate and many other influential Balinese figures and is allowed to stay in the country without a visa through bribery. So much more to tell about him and I didn't get his name, but he let me take a picture with him - he got a good laugh out of that.
Anyways, we just took a road through the most amazing volcanic landscape at the bottom of Batur Lake. Stopping at temples and batcaves along the way too. Every single local waves and smiles in these parts because foreigners are quite rare, and we buy gas out of 2-litre Pepsi bottles. I don't know where we're headed and ATM's are extremely scarce but this island is a gem and we don't mind. The Balinese people are some of the friendliest I've encountered, rivaling the Cubans in my mind. We're going to try our best to climb Mount Batur tomorrow - a large inactive volcano that my Mom and Dad once climbed over 20 years ago. The only problem is that Will has been unable to withdraw cash from the ATM's here, so we might have to go to a more centralized location which could be hours away. We'll do our best. I'll try to send a more detailed message when we settle down but, in short - Bali is ballin'.
There are trees, flora, and animals I've never seen before. Parts of the island look like the magma just cooled yesterday. And riding around in these cycles is an absolute blast. If I hadn't have met Will I don't know if I'd be doing this. Yesterday we stopped for lunch not far from the infamous Bali bombings of 2003 and I met a fascinating man. He was an older white man from Hawaii and reminded me of Ernest Hemingway. He did 2 tours in Vietnam and builds custom homes for people all over the world using the tropics for his decorative inspiration. He even owns 10 acres of rainforest in Bali and harvests his wood using a Balinese workforce and waterbuffalo! Not an ounce of pretentiousness or arrogance about him whatsoever. He told us with a glint in his eye that "corruption works!" in Indonesia. He is friends with the U.S. consulate and many other influential Balinese figures and is allowed to stay in the country without a visa through bribery. So much more to tell about him and I didn't get his name, but he let me take a picture with him - he got a good laugh out of that.
Anyways, we just took a road through the most amazing volcanic landscape at the bottom of Batur Lake. Stopping at temples and batcaves along the way too. Every single local waves and smiles in these parts because foreigners are quite rare, and we buy gas out of 2-litre Pepsi bottles. I don't know where we're headed and ATM's are extremely scarce but this island is a gem and we don't mind. The Balinese people are some of the friendliest I've encountered, rivaling the Cubans in my mind. We're going to try our best to climb Mount Batur tomorrow - a large inactive volcano that my Mom and Dad once climbed over 20 years ago. The only problem is that Will has been unable to withdraw cash from the ATM's here, so we might have to go to a more centralized location which could be hours away. We'll do our best. I'll try to send a more detailed message when we settle down but, in short - Bali is ballin'.
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Bali Bound
Well, I'm back in Singapore waiting for a connecting flight to Bali. I'll be here for a good 5 hours so I thought I'd say hello while I have some free time here. Just in case you might be wondering, it is really easy and cheap to get around out here. Airfares are very low and there is a flight to virtually any city in this area of the world.
So, Kuching was a bit of a bust. Borneo is a beautiful tropical jungle of an island but there are few travellers and even fewer my age. I wanted to go on a kayak trip along the river and a trek to a village in the Borneo highlands to see tribal natives but there was nobody to go along with. Most of the tours must be scheduled in parties of 3 minimum. The real bummer is that I booked my flight to Bali a couple of hours before I finally met someone who was going out to climb a mountain today. Anyways, that is life and I am learning the ropes of the game.
All was not lost there, either. Yesterday, I visited an orangutan sanctuary during feeding time. When they first come swinging through the trees I felt like I was in Jurassic Park. You can see the trees jostling and shaking, and the rustling of the leaves before you finally see a furry orange dwarf like figure watching you way up in the canopy. The orangutans are fascinating animals. Watching them exist peacefully in their natural habitat as they fed on bananas and hung upside down from the trees was a pretty rare experience and a pacifying one at that. They are brilliant climbers, silent and contemplative, and took only a passive interest in all of us annoying shutter happy tourists. When I look at these simple and dignified orangutans sometimes I wonder which species has really evolved more.
Bali should be a nice stop. I've heard it's a little touristy (expected since I am one after all) but I hope to climb a volcano there, visit the beach, and hopefully meet some people. It's been a bit lonely the last few days so some travelling company would be nice. This whole experience is forcing me to come out of my shell and become proactive and unafraid of strangers in foreign lands. It's a little tough but rewarding once you break through.
I hope all is well in Canada. Judging by the Leafs' record everything appears to be normal. It is so hot here that I honestly crave the cold winds of the great white north. Winter has probably set in around Timmins. Are you still at Perry Lake, Pete? It is surreal to think that winter is approaching over there and summer has just started over here. Okay, you probably want to slap me so I'll stop talking about the seasons. Well, my time is almost expired so I might try to catch some z's in the terminal here. I miss you all and I'll check in when I get to Bali.
Love Paul
So, Kuching was a bit of a bust. Borneo is a beautiful tropical jungle of an island but there are few travellers and even fewer my age. I wanted to go on a kayak trip along the river and a trek to a village in the Borneo highlands to see tribal natives but there was nobody to go along with. Most of the tours must be scheduled in parties of 3 minimum. The real bummer is that I booked my flight to Bali a couple of hours before I finally met someone who was going out to climb a mountain today. Anyways, that is life and I am learning the ropes of the game.
All was not lost there, either. Yesterday, I visited an orangutan sanctuary during feeding time. When they first come swinging through the trees I felt like I was in Jurassic Park. You can see the trees jostling and shaking, and the rustling of the leaves before you finally see a furry orange dwarf like figure watching you way up in the canopy. The orangutans are fascinating animals. Watching them exist peacefully in their natural habitat as they fed on bananas and hung upside down from the trees was a pretty rare experience and a pacifying one at that. They are brilliant climbers, silent and contemplative, and took only a passive interest in all of us annoying shutter happy tourists. When I look at these simple and dignified orangutans sometimes I wonder which species has really evolved more.
Bali should be a nice stop. I've heard it's a little touristy (expected since I am one after all) but I hope to climb a volcano there, visit the beach, and hopefully meet some people. It's been a bit lonely the last few days so some travelling company would be nice. This whole experience is forcing me to come out of my shell and become proactive and unafraid of strangers in foreign lands. It's a little tough but rewarding once you break through.
I hope all is well in Canada. Judging by the Leafs' record everything appears to be normal. It is so hot here that I honestly crave the cold winds of the great white north. Winter has probably set in around Timmins. Are you still at Perry Lake, Pete? It is surreal to think that winter is approaching over there and summer has just started over here. Okay, you probably want to slap me so I'll stop talking about the seasons. Well, my time is almost expired so I might try to catch some z's in the terminal here. I miss you all and I'll check in when I get to Bali.
Love Paul
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